Leheriya: Rajasthan's Tie-Dyed Waves

Leheriya: Rajasthan's Tie-Dyed Waves

Tie a length of cloth just so, dip it in dye, and unfurl a ripple of diagonal stripes. This is leheriya, Rajasthan’s tie-dye of waves.

Fun fact: The name leheriya comes from leher, the Hindi word for “wave” — and the cloth was once the favourite of Rajput men, whose turbans rippled with its colours.

Pink Leheriya Pure Organza Gotta Patti Dupatta — Khinkhwab
Pink Leheriya Organza Dupatta with Gotta Patti — Khinkhwab. The diagonal wave of leheriya, in soft pink — the same tie-and-dye tradition that once filled a Rajput’s turban.

The wave and its name

Leheriya takes its name from leher, “wave” — fine, diagonal lines of colour running like ripples across the cloth. It is a tie-and-dye (resist) art, cousin to Rajasthan’s dotted bandhani — but where bandhani makes spots, leheriya makes stripes.

How the waves are made

A long, thin length of cloth is rolled diagonally from corner to corner into a rope, then bound tightly at intervals with thread before dyeing. Where the thread binds, the dye cannot reach, leaving undyed lines. Unrolled, the cloth reveals its signature diagonal waves. To add more colours, it is untied, re-rolled and re-bound, again and again.

Rajasthani woman in tie-dye odhni veil with diagonal stripes 19th century India
Rajasthani woman wearing a tie-dyed veil, 19th century. Metropolitan Museum of Art (Public Domain). The rippling diagonal stripes of leheriya worn as an odhni — exactly as the tradition intended.

The home of leheriya

Leheriya is a craft of Rajasthan — above all Jaipur, Jodhpur and the towns of the desert. It was worn as turbans (safa) and as the flowing odhni veils and sarees of women, and is especially loved at festivals such as Teej and Gangaur, when its bright waves feel like a celebration of the rains.

Many colours, many names

Panchranga (five-coloured) and satranga (seven-coloured) are the most prized. A related technique, mothra, ties the cloth twice in opposite directions to create a lattice of tiny checks.

The thread we love

What draws us to leheriya is the same wonder we feel at our own looms: that with nothing more than thread, a fold and a patient hand, plain cloth can be turned into a pattern as alive as moving water. Explore our Leheriya collection.

Frequently asked questions

What is leheriya?

A traditional Rajasthani tie-dye technique creating diagonal wave-like stripes. Name from leher, meaning “wave.”

How is leheriya different from bandhani?

Bandhani ties tiny points to create dots; leheriya rolls and binds the cloth to create diagonal stripes.

Sources & further reading

Studies of Rajasthani resist-dyeing; museum documentation on Indian tie-dye textiles.

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