Before a single thread of silk is dyed, a Banarasi already exists on graph paper, in the mind of the naqshband, the designer who is the true author of the saree.
✨ Fun fact: The naqshband’s grid of knotted strings, the naksha, is a centuries-old ancestor of the punch-card — a way of storing a pattern in code long before computers.
Drawing with thread in mind
The naqshband begins by drawing the design on graph paper, every motif plotted square by square. That drawing is then translated into the naksha: a grid of knotted cotton strings that tells the loom which warp threads to lift for each row of the pattern. Get the naksha right and the saree blooms; get it wrong and the whole cloth is wrong. It is an exacting, almost mathematical art.
The masters remembered by name
Most weaving is anonymous, but the great naqshbands are remembered. Hayatullah of Doshpura created motifs — such as the latifa boota and bela booti — that are still woven today; Kallu Hafiz reimagined Baluchari and Kashmiri motifs for Banarasi looms and won national recognition. A few old masters could draw a design straight onto a mica sheet with an iron pen, without erasing a single line. (Attributed in Dream of Weaving, Textiles Committee, 2007.)
From naksha to Jacquard
For centuries the naksha was read by a draw boy perched above the loom. Today its logic lives on in the Jacquard’s punch-cards — but the design still begins with the naqshband’s hand and eye. The technology changed; the author did not.
At Khinkhwab
Every saree we make starts with this quiet, invisible genius. Read more about the many hands behind a Banarasi, or explore our handwoven sarees.
Frequently asked questions
What is a naqshband?
The designer who draws a Banarasi’s pattern and builds the naksha — the grid of strings that sets the design on the loom.
What is a naksha?
A grid of knotted strings that ‘programmes’ the loom, telling it which threads to lift for each row — the forerunner of the Jacquard punch-card.
Sources & further reading
This article draws on the government study Dream of Weaving: Study & Documentation of Banaras Sarees and Brocades (Textiles Committee, Government of India, 2007), and on Tarannum Fatma Lari, Textiles of Banaras: Yesterday and Today (Indica Books, 2010).
