Khinkhwab Diaries

How a sacred city on the Ganga became the brocade capital of India — the geography, history and patronage that made Banaras the city of woven gold.

Brocade as the language of power — how cloth of gold dressed the kings, queens and cathedrals of Europe, from Byzantium to Versailles.

Wycinanki papercuts, Bolesławiec pottery and the striped folk dress of Łowicz — Poland's joyful village crafts.

A cloth protected by Act of Parliament, a dress banned by one, and the mill town that took a Persian motif and gave it a Scottish name.

Azulejo tiles, Arraiolos wool rugs and delicate gold filigree — the blue-and-gold craft traditions of Portugal.

How kincob, the English word for Indian gold brocade, travelled from the looms of Banaras into the wardrobes and account books of Europe.

Delft blue pottery, bobbin lace and linen damask — the quietly perfect crafts of the Low Countries.

Matyó floral embroidery, Herend porcelain and Halas lace — the exuberant folk crafts of Hungary.

The decline and quiet revival of the Banarasi handloom — the powerloom challenge, the GI fight and the weavers keeping the craft alive.

The Persian and Mughal roots of Banarasi design — how paisleys, vines and garden flowers travelled along the loom into the heart of the Banarasi saree.

A Banarasi for every celebration — how to choose colour, weave and motif for Diwali, Navratri, Durga Puja, Eid and the festive season.

The lightest Banarasi silks for hot days — organza, kora, georgette and tissue, and how to stay cool while still wearing handloom.