A Ming-dynasty blue-and-white porcelain jar with a dragon, Xuande period. The Metropolitan Museum of Art (public domain)

The Crafts of China: Silk, Cloud Brocade & Porcelain

China gave the world its most precious cloth. The story of silk — and of the brocade we weave in Banaras — begins here, more than four thousand years ago.

Fun fact: For centuries China guarded the secret of silk so closely that revealing how it was made could be punished by death — which is why the route that finally carried it west became known as the Silk Road.

Silk — the mother craft

The Chinese discovered how to unwind the cocoon of the silkworm into thread thousands of years ago, and for a long time were the only people on earth who could make silk. From this single craft grew an empire of cloth — and, eventually, the Silk Road that carried it to the world.

Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk, a Tang-dynasty painting of silk-making
Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk — a Tang-dynasty scene of silk-making (a Song-era copy attributed to Emperor Huizong). Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

Cloud brocade and carved silk

China’s brocades are among the most magnificent ever woven. Yunjin — the “cloud brocade” of Nanjing — was woven with silk and gold for the imperial court. Kesi, or “carved silk,” is a fine silk tapestry so precise it can copy a painting thread for thread. These are the close cousins of our own kamkhwab.

A Chinese kesi carved-silk tapestry-woven robe with roundels, Qing dynasty
A Qing kesi (carved-silk) robe, tapestry-woven in silk and gold. The Metropolitan Museum of Art (public domain).

Porcelain — the cloth’s equal in clay

China’s other gift to the world is porcelain. The blue-and-white wares of Jingdezhen, painted in cobalt under a clear glaze, were traded across the globe and imitated everywhere from Delft to Japan.

The thread we love

Every gold-woven Banarasi owes a quiet debt to China, where silk began. Explore our Brocade Fabric collection.

Frequently asked questions

Why is China so important to the history of silk?

Silk was first made in China over four thousand years ago, and the trade that carried it westward gave the Silk Road its name.

What is Chinese cloud brocade?

Yunjin, the cloud brocade of Nanjing, was woven with silk and gold for the imperial court, named for its resemblance to coloured clouds.


More from Khinkhwab Diaries: what is silk? · the meaning of Kinkhab · the looms of Banaras.

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