Japanese wedding kimono, c. 1925, silk with gold, Honolulu Museum of Art

The Crafts of Japan: Nishijin Brocade, Indigo & the Art of Repair

In Japan, craft is a form of devotion — whether weaving a gold obi in Kyoto or mending a work coat with a hundred small stitches.

Fun fact: The Japanese art of kintsugi repairs broken pottery with lacquer and gold, treating the crack not as damage to hide but as part of the object's history to honour.

Japanese wedding kimono, c. 1925, silk with gold
A Japanese wedding kimono, c. 1925 — silk and gold, the bridal splendour that is Japan's cousin to a Banarasi. Honolulu Museum of Art, via Wikimedia Commons.

Of all the world's textile cultures, Japan's feels like a cousin to ours — a place where silk woven with gold is treated with the same reverence we give a Banarasi.

Nishijin — the brocade of Kyoto

Japan's great brocade is Nishijin-ori, woven in the Nishijin district of Kyoto for centuries. Using silk and gold thread on intricate looms, its weavers create the sumptuous obi — the wide sash of the kimono — in patterns of cranes, pines and flowers. It is, in every sense, Japan's kamkhwab.

The dyer's arts — yuzen and shibori

Where the kimono is not woven into pattern, it is dyed into it. Yuzen is the art of painting fine, pictorial designs onto silk by hand. Shibori — Japan's exquisite tie-dye — binds, folds and stitches the cloth before dyeing, often in deep indigo.

Indigo-dyed yogi, a kimono-shaped bed cover from Japan
A yogi, a kimono-shaped bed cover, worked in Japan's deep indigo — the everyday blue behind so much of its cloth. Honolulu Museum of Art, via Wikimedia Commons.

The stitch that mends

Japan also turned mending into art. Sashiko — running-stitch embroidery in white thread on indigo cloth — was used to reinforce and repair work clothes. Worn-out cloth was even torn into strips and woven anew as sakiori. Nothing was wasted; everything was made to last.

Hikeshi-banten, a 19th-century Japanese fireman's coat quilted in sashiko
A hikeshi-banten — a fireman's coat quilted in sashiko, running-stitch layers made strong enough to soak with water and fight fire. Honolulu Museum of Art, via Wikimedia Commons.
Sakiori rag-woven work jacket from Japan
A sakiori work jacket — woven from strips of worn-out cloth, so nothing went to waste. Honolulu Museum of Art, via Wikimedia Commons.

The thread we love

The weavers of Nishijin and the weavers of Banaras have never met, yet they share a faith: that silk and gold, woven by hand, are worth a lifetime's skill. See it in our Brocade Fabric collection.

Frequently asked questions

What is Nishijin brocade?

Nishijin-ori is the traditional silk brocade of Kyoto, woven with gold and coloured silk into obi sashes and kimono fabric.

What is kintsugi?

The Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with lacquer and gold, so the mended cracks become a beautiful, honoured part of the object.


Sources & further reading

On Nishijin brocade, shibori and the sashiko-and-boro tradition of mending, see the collections and open-access records of the Honolulu Museum of Art and the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada, Shibori: The Inventive Art of Japanese Shaped Resist Dyeing.

Leave a comment

Please note, comments need to be approved before they are published.

This site is protected by hCaptcha and the hCaptcha Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.