Fabric Stories: Matka, Spun Silk & Suta – The Unsung Heroes of Banarasi Weaving

Fabric Stories: Matka, Spun Silk & Suta – The Unsung Heroes of Banarasi Weaving

When people think of Banarasi sarees, their mind often jumps to rich Katan silk Banarasis or shimmering zari brocades. But behind the grandeur lies a set of humble, hardworking fibres that have silently shaped the Banarasi weaving tradition: Matka, Spun Silk (Staple Silk), and Suta. Though less celebrated than mulberry silk, these yarns bring their own charm and versatility to the loom.

Matka Silk – Rustic Elegance

Matka silk is made from the waste cocoons of mulberry or tussar silk. Unlike reeled silk, which is smooth and continuous, matka is spun by hand, resulting in a slightly coarse, slubby texture. Far from being a flaw, this irregularity gives matka silk its unique character.

A Matka Banarasi saree has an understated elegance — less sheen than Katan but more depth and personality. Its texture pairs beautifully with zari borders or woven motifs, making it a favourite among women who appreciate sustainable, organic luxury sarees.

Fun fact: Matka silk has been called the “linen of silks” because of its textured look and breathable feel, perfect for summer drapes.

Spun Silk (Staple Silk) – Modern Adaptability

While Banaras is rooted in tradition, it has also adapted to modern materials. Spun silk, also known as staple silk, is made by spinning short silk fibres from pierced or broken cocoons. The result is a smoother yarn than matka but less lustrous than pure reeled silk.

Spun silk provides an affordable alternative to pure Banarasi silk sarees, making it ideal for daily wear or lighter festive wear. Though it doesn’t carry the prestige of pure Katan, spun silk has opened the doors of Banarasi weaving to a wider audience.

Fun fact: Spun silk has a slightly matte finish, which makes it popular today in minimalist fashion sarees and dupattas.

Suta – The Cotton Thread of Banaras

Suta, the Hindi word for thread, refers to cotton yarn that is still widely used in Banarasi weaving. Cotton threads are often blended with silk or zari to create floral motifs, borders, or lightweight sarees. A cotton-silk Banarasi saree feels airy, graceful, and versatile — perfect for work events, small gatherings, or day festivals.

Fun fact: Some of the earliest Banarasi sarees were woven in cotton before silk brocades became dominant.

Khinkhwab’s Everyday Luxuries

At Khinkhwab, we believe every fibre has its story. Our collections feature:

  • Cotton-Silk Sarees & Dupattas – breezy, elegant, and perfect for everyday wear. Explore cotton-silk pieces here.

  • Matka-Inspired Dupattas – with textured charm, paired beautifully with plain kurtas.

  • Lightweight Spun Silk Fabrics – affordable Banarasi fabrics with timeless patterns.

These pieces celebrate everyday Banarasi elegance, giving women around the world access to authentic handloom heritage at different price points.

Closing Thought

The story of Banaras is incomplete without Matka, Spun Silk, and Suta. They may not shine as brightly as Katan or Moonga, but they form the fabric of everyday life. They prove that in the world of Banarasi weaving, even the humblest threads can create timeless Banarasi sarees, dupattas, and fabrics that women cherish across generations.

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