While Banarasi sarees are most often associated with pure mulberry silk, the city's looms have also embraced the earthy charm of wild silks. Among these, Tussar and Moonga are the most celebrated, adding a rustic elegance and rare character to Banarasi weaving.
Tussar Silk – The Golden Heritage
Tussar silk comes from silkworms that feed on forest trees like sal and arjun. It is naturally golden-brown in colour, with a slightly coarse yet lustrous texture. This raw, organic character makes Tussar Banarasis instantly recognizable and deeply loved.
Tussar can be left in its natural golden hue or dyed in vibrant shades, making it highly versatile. From subtle beige tones to deep maroons and blues, a Tussar Banarasi saree feels both grounded and festive. Beyond sarees, Tussar is now widely used in dupattas and kurta fabrics — lightweight, elegant, and perfect for both daily wear and special occasions.
✨ Fun fact: Tussar is often called "wild silk" because of its forest origins, and its golden sheen remains unmatched by any other silk.
Moonga Silk – The Golden Silk of Assam
Moonga silk, famous as the "Golden Silk of Assam," is one of the rarest silks in the world. Naturally golden-yellow, it is strong, lustrous, and incredibly durable. Unlike many silks that weaken over time, Moonga becomes shinier with age, making it a true heirloom fabric.
When woven on Banaras looms, Moonga is often blended with tussar, creating Moonga Tussar silk — a fabric that combines the raw richness of tussar with the radiant glow of moonga.
✨ Fun fact: Moonga silk is the only natural silk that occurs in a golden shade, making it globally unique.
Khinkhwab's Wild Silk Treasures
At Khinkhwab, we are proud to bring these wild silks into the modern wardrobe through curated collections:
🌿 The Muniya Collection – A celebration of Moonga and Tussar, woven with traditional motifs and zari borders.
🌙 The Turkish Moonga Collection – Inspired by intricate Turkish motifs, these Moonga Banarasis combine age-old craftsmanship with global aesthetics.
Closing Thought
Tussar and Moonga Banarasis remind us that beauty often lies in what is raw and imperfect. They bring the forest to the loom, the wild to the wedding, and the earthy to the elegant.
Frequently Asked Questions About Tussar Silk
What is tussar silk?
Tussar silk comes from silkworms that feed on forest trees rather than mulberry leaves. It is naturally golden-brown in colour with a slightly coarse, textured feel. Unlike the uniform smoothness of katan, tussar has a raw, organic character — and it is this individuality that makes each tussar saree unique.
Is tussar silk similar to georgette? Can it be dyed?
Tussar silk has a naturally flowing drape similar to georgette — lightweight, fluid and easy to wear. Unlike heavier silks like katan, tussar moves beautifully and doesn't feel stiff. It is also fully dyeable, which makes it one of the most versatile Banarasi silks — available in everything from its natural golden-brown to vibrant jewel tones and soft pastels.
What is the difference between tussar and katan silk?
Katan is smooth, tight, and lustrous — the premium bridal silk. Tussar is textured, slightly coarser, and earthier in feel. Katan is heavier and holds dense zari work best. Tussar is lighter and more breathable, making it better for daily festive wear and dupattas.
Are tussar silk sarees good for daily wear?
Yes — tussar is one of the most practical Banarasi silks for regular wear. It is lighter than katan, less likely to crease badly, and has a natural warmth and richness. Tussar sarees and dupattas pair beautifully with plain kurtas for everyday elegance.
How do I care for a tussar silk saree?
Dry clean for best results. Tussar can absorb moisture easily, so store in a dry, airy space wrapped in muslin. Avoid folding along the same lines repeatedly. The natural golden hue of undyed tussar may deepen slightly over time — this is normal and considered beautiful.
