While Banarasi sarees are most often associated with pure mulberry silk, the city’s looms have also embraced the earthy charm of wild silks. Among these, Tussar and Moonga are the most celebrated, adding a rustic elegance and rare character to Banarasi weaving.
Tussar Silk – The Golden Heritage
Tussar silk comes from silkworms that feed on forest trees like sal and arjun. It is naturally golden-brown in colour, with a slightly coarse yet lustrous texture. This raw, organic character makes Tussar Banarasis instantly recognizable and deeply loved.
Tussar can be left in its natural golden hue or dyed in vibrant shades, making it highly versatile. From subtle beige tones to deep maroons and blues, a Tussar Banarasi saree feels both grounded and festive. Beyond sarees, Tussar is now widely used in dupattas and kurta fabrics — lightweight, elegant, and perfect for both daily wear and special occasions.
✨ Fun fact: Tussar is often called “wild silk” because of its forest origins, and its golden sheen remains unmatched by any other silk.
Moonga Silk – The Golden Silk of Assam
Moonga silk, famous as the “Golden Silk of Assam,” is one of the rarest silks in the world. Naturally golden-yellow, it is strong, lustrous, and incredibly durable. Unlike many silks that weaken over time, Moonga becomes shinier with age, making it a true heirloom fabric.
When woven on Banaras looms, Moonga is often blended with tussar, creating what is known as Moonga Tussar silk. This unique fabric combines the raw richness of tussar with the radiant glow of moonga, producing Banarasi sarees, dupattas, and fabrics that feel luxurious yet earthy. Like tussar, moonga too can be dyed in bold or pastel shades, expanding its appeal for modern wardrobes.
✨ Fun fact: Moonga silk is the only natural silk that occurs in a golden shade, making it globally unique.
Ari (Arandi) Silk – A Chapter Closed
Ari silk (from silkworms feeding on castor leaves) was once reared in Assam, but it is no longer in use in Banarasi weaving today. While its legacy remains, today’s focus has shifted to tussar and moonga, which are both sustainable and versatile.
Khinkhwab’s Wild Silk Treasures
At Khinkhwab, we are proud to bring these wild silks into the modern wardrobe through curated collections:
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🌿 The Muniya Collection – A celebration of Moonga and Tussar, woven with traditional motifs and zari borders. Perfect for women who want to carry a piece of heritage in everyday elegance. Explore the collection here: Muniya Collection – Khinkhwab - https://khinkhwab.com/collections/muniya-collection
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🌙 The Turkish Moonga Collection – Inspired by intricate Turkish motifs, these Moonga Banarasis combine age-old craftsmanship with global aesthetics. The collection includes sarees, dupattas, and fabrics that glow like liquid gold. Discover it here: Turkish Moonga Collection – Khinkhwab - https://khinkhwab.com/collections/moonga-silk-sarees
Beyond sarees, Moonga and Tussar dupattas drape beautifully over plain kurtas, while Moonga kurta fabrics offer understated luxury for both festive and semi-formal wear.
The Allure of Wild Silks
What makes Tussar and Moonga special is their ability to bring earthiness into elegance. They are not as uniform as mulberry silk — and that is their charm. Each piece carries subtle variations, making it unique. For today’s women who appreciate authenticity and sustainable fashion, wild silks are the perfect choice.
Closing Thought
Tussar and Moonga Banarasis remind us that beauty often lies in what is raw and imperfect. They bring the forest to the loom, the wild to the wedding, and the earthy to the elegant. Whether it’s a golden Tussar saree, a dyed Moonga dupatta, or a Moonga Tussar kurta fabric, these weaves continue to weave magic into modern wardrobes.
